Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Tubani So

Im so annoyed at myself that I didn't get a picture last night. Marshall, Ian and I all went out to Tubani So, the Peace Corps training site, where Ian gave a presentation on his research to about 60 volunteers there for in country training. Tubani So is where it all began...perhaps where Ian and I first saw each other although we only vaguely remember. The chance meeting was at a roadside fast food stall called the "Bozo Shack"...how fitting in someways for a couple of wackos like us. We sadly discovered yesterday that its no longer there...

Anyway, Tubani So...besides a gate at the entrance, some computers in the dining hall and some fresh paint, EVERYTHING was exactly the same. Its was really really trippy. I guess I should say the same for the Peace Corps offices where we met the car that took us out to Tubani So, that was strange as well. Again, more security to get in, some new cushions on the couches, but even the guards, even Moussa, the driver, now fleet manager(what was once 6 vehicles is now 16)was there to get us into the car.

The volunteers have mostly been in country 6 months and are the same mix from when we were there, although I did say to Ian that I remember our groups being much cooler...perhaps a reflection of how I view our lives back then more than anything. Ian thought they asked good questions, in general. There is always one in the group who doesn't want to get it.

Overall, it was a great experience. Familiar faces who honestly remembered us were everywhere from the kitchen staff, a couple of language professors(Bocar Bocum, Abdolaye Coulibaly, Mamadu Sissoma for those RPVs reading this), Sam Samake, training coordinator(again, RPCVs, Saloum retired a few years back), and Yakouba, the shy young assistant Natural Resources program coordinator. They greeted us so warmly and looked with the pride of grandparents upon Marshall, passing him around, so happy to see what they were calling the next generation of volunteers. It was appropriate as these people raised us into Mali and to see us come back, not just for a training or visit while in service, but years later as professional adults now with a family is an accomplishment for them as well. They showered us with sodas and bananas and watermelon for Marshall.

The Assistant Program Director for Natural Resources is now an American who served as a PCV in Mali just before Ian did. She's married to a Dogon man(the cliff dwelling people up north) who is a contemporary sculptor. She had actually invited Ian to come speak and was a great person to talk to. I think we will be having dinner with them soon. They have a 4 year old and a 7 year old. I think I'll close this babbling post with a cute story she told us about when they first came to Mali a year ago. Although her husband is Dogon, they had never brought the kids back here. They arrived in country at night and her son, as they were driving through town became very upset and shocked. He turned to her and asked, "Mommy, was there a hurricane or horrible storm that came through here?" She said, "No, honey, this is just what it looks like...why?" Apparently, not only the rubble strewn nature of a third world city did it, but at night, all the open stalls that exist for selling things along the side of the road were closed, tables and chairs were turned on their side to protect from dust. He thought something had come through and blown them all over.

Exploring

Marshall is doing some serious exploring now that he's on the move. Below, he's first realizing that it is, in fact, his bathtub without any water in it(the tub, by the way, was something I found in the market as a part of a "set" that was together about $7. The other two items in the set are a baby toilet(looks like a dog bowl with a seat back) and a poop bucket).
The others are of his new favorite trick of climbing up into the coffee table. He seriously can't get enough of this and thinks its the coolest thing ever.