So I have received a few emails of people asking about what is up with the latest drama and our friend Abdolaye. You know Ian and I keep talking about how we almost need a whole separate blog sometimes for our Abdolaye stories. He is a case study in cultural differences and things being lost in translation.
Let me first state that Abdolaye is a good person. I think he means well and its clear he's in a funny place in his life. His father, a very respected scientist, passed away this past year. Abdolaye is the oldest son, 27, and yet to be married and is only partially employed. he never finished school. Lets just say he has a few unresolved issues. Regardless, he always shows up with a smile on his face and at least the intention of doing good.
He's almost like a comic book version of himself at times. He splashes water all over everything, almost ruining some of Ian's field books. He started pouring dirty water down the sink and backed up the drain something fierce. And seriously, every time he comes, there has only been one time(when he had somewhere else to be) that he doesn't spend at least an hour inexplicably sitting quietly and alone on our couch.
Regardless, he's doing his job, responding when we ask something to be done differently (like not splashed all over the place), so there is nothing we can, in good conscience, do. We just have to keep feeding him, riding out the awkward silences, and learn our own strange things we do that seem to make him finally go...seems every time I start cooking he decides its time to leave.
Also, he and Marshall adore each other. Marshall gets so excited when Abdolaye shows up and takes him. Abdolaye loves Marshall so much that the day after Tabaski, he came by in his super fancy clothes with his friend who is a professional photographer to make sure to get a picture of Abdolaye holding Marshall.
Abdolaye has a young friend, Moussa, who lives 2 doors down who is equally as awkward, although his intentions are a bit more clear. Ian let him play his PSP for about 3 hours the first day he was over here. He keeps coming for another shot at it. Moussa supposedly is in high school with the desire to go to college and become an accountant, although I see him out and about in the neighborhood, just about every day.
So thats whats up with Abdolaye. He's on his way now and Ian, again, has something that HAS to be done today. Seems to always be the case the days that Abdolaye comes...
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Food
So a few of you have asked about a couple of things involving food. First, am I working on my cookbook...ah...Marshall is teaching me about the kinds of goals I should really make with a small baby living on Mali time. In otherwords, the answer is no. The other question is what do I do with my days...I've been nesting in my new home and getting to know my neighborhood and city. Everyday I basically live the life of an American housewife. There is cleaning to do, always lots of laundry with cloth diapers. I go to the market pretty much everyday to get fresh food for dinner and the next day, meat, veggies and bread. We go for a long walk once a day to get out and see something new, or perhaps just fun. And this is interspersed with naps from Marshall that allow me to return some emails, update this blog and take care of odds and ends logistically for our lives.
I have also been asked what we eat as the image for some is of a small African village, which this is not, and others, a place with limited food choices. Let me tell you, we are actually eating quite well and not too different from the average American family. Once a week we go to one of the few Western style grocery stores in town and get some luxury items like Nutella, cheese, butter, toilet paper otherwise, we eat very well from the small and large markets that aren't too far from our home. For Chirstmas dinner we had a fantastic beef tenderloin(ummm...a $40 cut of meat in the states for about $4...it was sick), mashed potatoes and green beans with mushrooms. The mushrooms and butter were the only add on items.
Another thing about the cookbook is that there are new things I am discovering here this time around that keep getting added to my list of things I want ot learn how to make...frufru, black eyed pea sandwiches...and seriously, I had something that tasted like some of the best pork rind ever the other day, but I know it wasn't pork...so many treasures, so little time!
Below are some recipies of some things we've made recently/new staples here in Mali. Some of these things, honestly, we would have never cooked in the states
Last nights dinner (serves 2)
Spicy Guinea Fowl and Green Beans
1 small Guinea fowl or chicken
1/3 c dijon mustard
1/2 t hot red pepper flakes
1 t salt
1/2 t black pepper
1 small onion
6 cloves garlic
1/2 lb green beans
1 T butter
salt and pepper to taste
Boil the green beans in water until tender. Add butter, salt and pepper. Toss, cover and set aside.
Ok, I honestly can't give a temperature that this was cooked on...it was number 7 on our strange oven thing...I'd check the standard per pound roasting times for a chicken(or duck if you are using guinea fowl) online or in a standard cookbook like Joy of Cooking. Preheat to that temperature.
Rinse the poultry. Rub with dijon mustard and set in roasting pan. Sprinkle inside and outside with salt, red pepper, and black pepper. Coarsly chop the onion and 3 cloves of garlic and stuff inside the body cavity. Mince the other 3 cloves of garlic and rub all over. Cook according to instructions above.
Viande Hachee Sandwiches(ground beef sandwiches....this is Malian street food....)-Serves 4
1 lb lean ground beef
1 medium onion
1 green pepper
2 cloves garlic
1 medium tomato
1 T vegetable oil
2 T white vinager
1/4 t red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
Mayonnaise
Crusty French bread
Dice the onion, green pepper and tomato, mince the garlic. Sautee all of that in the oil over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until the onions begin to sweat. Add the ground beef, pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Brown the beef. Add the vinegar and cook 5 more minutes while stirring. Serve on french bread spread with mayonnaise(or mustard and ketchup).
Hard boiled Egg Salad- Serves 2
1 head romaine or red tipped lettuce
1 cucumber
2 roma tomatoes
1 carrot
1 large potato
1 T vegetable oil
6 hard boiled eggs
1/4 c peanuts
Dressing
1/4 c olive oil
1/3 c white vinegar
2 T dijon mustard
1/2 t salt
1/2 t pepper
To make the dressing, whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl. Refrigerate.
Slice the potato into french fry slices. Fry in the oil over medium high heat until golden. Peel and chop the carrot and cucumber. Dice the tomatoes and eggs. Divide lettuce evenly onto plates. Divide other ingredients evenly and top with chilled dressing.
As for the street food. I got all excited, as you may recall, about learning the technique for cooking many things here. Yeah, so this is for the RPCVs laughing at me about now, I quickly forget, its all in the oil...a kind we can't get in the states...thats really all there is too a lot of it...
Happy eating to you all and happy new year!
I have also been asked what we eat as the image for some is of a small African village, which this is not, and others, a place with limited food choices. Let me tell you, we are actually eating quite well and not too different from the average American family. Once a week we go to one of the few Western style grocery stores in town and get some luxury items like Nutella, cheese, butter, toilet paper otherwise, we eat very well from the small and large markets that aren't too far from our home. For Chirstmas dinner we had a fantastic beef tenderloin(ummm...a $40 cut of meat in the states for about $4...it was sick), mashed potatoes and green beans with mushrooms. The mushrooms and butter were the only add on items.
Another thing about the cookbook is that there are new things I am discovering here this time around that keep getting added to my list of things I want ot learn how to make...frufru, black eyed pea sandwiches...and seriously, I had something that tasted like some of the best pork rind ever the other day, but I know it wasn't pork...so many treasures, so little time!
Below are some recipies of some things we've made recently/new staples here in Mali. Some of these things, honestly, we would have never cooked in the states
Last nights dinner (serves 2)
Spicy Guinea Fowl and Green Beans
1 small Guinea fowl or chicken
1/3 c dijon mustard
1/2 t hot red pepper flakes
1 t salt
1/2 t black pepper
1 small onion
6 cloves garlic
1/2 lb green beans
1 T butter
salt and pepper to taste
Boil the green beans in water until tender. Add butter, salt and pepper. Toss, cover and set aside.
Ok, I honestly can't give a temperature that this was cooked on...it was number 7 on our strange oven thing...I'd check the standard per pound roasting times for a chicken(or duck if you are using guinea fowl) online or in a standard cookbook like Joy of Cooking. Preheat to that temperature.
Rinse the poultry. Rub with dijon mustard and set in roasting pan. Sprinkle inside and outside with salt, red pepper, and black pepper. Coarsly chop the onion and 3 cloves of garlic and stuff inside the body cavity. Mince the other 3 cloves of garlic and rub all over. Cook according to instructions above.
Viande Hachee Sandwiches(ground beef sandwiches....this is Malian street food....)-Serves 4
1 lb lean ground beef
1 medium onion
1 green pepper
2 cloves garlic
1 medium tomato
1 T vegetable oil
2 T white vinager
1/4 t red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
Mayonnaise
Crusty French bread
Dice the onion, green pepper and tomato, mince the garlic. Sautee all of that in the oil over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until the onions begin to sweat. Add the ground beef, pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Brown the beef. Add the vinegar and cook 5 more minutes while stirring. Serve on french bread spread with mayonnaise(or mustard and ketchup).
Hard boiled Egg Salad- Serves 2
1 head romaine or red tipped lettuce
1 cucumber
2 roma tomatoes
1 carrot
1 large potato
1 T vegetable oil
6 hard boiled eggs
1/4 c peanuts
Dressing
1/4 c olive oil
1/3 c white vinegar
2 T dijon mustard
1/2 t salt
1/2 t pepper
To make the dressing, whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl. Refrigerate.
Slice the potato into french fry slices. Fry in the oil over medium high heat until golden. Peel and chop the carrot and cucumber. Dice the tomatoes and eggs. Divide lettuce evenly onto plates. Divide other ingredients evenly and top with chilled dressing.
As for the street food. I got all excited, as you may recall, about learning the technique for cooking many things here. Yeah, so this is for the RPCVs laughing at me about now, I quickly forget, its all in the oil...a kind we can't get in the states...thats really all there is too a lot of it...
Happy eating to you all and happy new year!
Friday, December 28, 2007
The burbs
This morning, we hopped in a taxi to head out to the suburbs of Bamako to the American Embassy to take care of some business. What used to be a falling apart old colonial structure in, seriously, the smack middle of downtown, is now a sprawling shiny office complex out in the Hamdallaye neighborhood. This is an "unfinished" area of town with tons of construction, some new, some half finished and abondonned. There has been some care taken to the planning of it and there is landscaping in the medians, lots of paved roads and bits of Western life all around. I wish I'd had my camera. It really even felt like the burbs in the states in some areas. At one point, we were on this large parkway, 4 lanes, a landscaped median in the middle. Large empty spaces waiting to be developped are interrupted by fancy and sterile Peugeot dealerships, Western hospitals, spankin' new hotels with "free internet..." We even passed what looked frighteningly like a mall...modern clothing, furniture stores, a restaurant...it looked like a bank had taken over where the movie theater was supposed to go. I honestly would not have been suprised to see a Chili's and a drive thru Starbucks. We happily found "The Mac Centre Mali." wow...wonder if they have iPhones...
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Happy 6 month birthday...
Dear Marshall,
As this is the most complete of a baby book you have, we wanted to be sure to take a moment to commemorate your first 6 months with us here in the outside world. A you probably know at this point in your life, you were not a planned event. As we now understand it, you were an incredible blessing in disguise, your timing perfect.
The past 6 months have easily been some of the best months of our lives. The joy you continue to bring us is simply enormous. As much as we'd love to keep you sweet, cuddly and small forever, at the same time, we can't wait to see what the next 6 months, even years, bring to see who you become and what you kind of person you grow into.
We know all your days aren't perfect, but we promise to always be there to hold you when you cry and do our best to keep you well fed, healthy, and stimulated enough to grow and be excited by all the wonderful things this world holds. We can't promise we'll be perfect, but we promise that our intentions with you will always be pure and our love always present.
May your next six months here in Mali be even better than the first six. We can't wait to share them with you.
Happy birthday our dear son. We adore you.
More love than we ever imagined we could give,
Mom and Dad(aka the booby and the elbow)
As this is the most complete of a baby book you have, we wanted to be sure to take a moment to commemorate your first 6 months with us here in the outside world. A you probably know at this point in your life, you were not a planned event. As we now understand it, you were an incredible blessing in disguise, your timing perfect.
The past 6 months have easily been some of the best months of our lives. The joy you continue to bring us is simply enormous. As much as we'd love to keep you sweet, cuddly and small forever, at the same time, we can't wait to see what the next 6 months, even years, bring to see who you become and what you kind of person you grow into.
We know all your days aren't perfect, but we promise to always be there to hold you when you cry and do our best to keep you well fed, healthy, and stimulated enough to grow and be excited by all the wonderful things this world holds. We can't promise we'll be perfect, but we promise that our intentions with you will always be pure and our love always present.
May your next six months here in Mali be even better than the first six. We can't wait to share them with you.
Happy birthday our dear son. We adore you.
More love than we ever imagined we could give,
Mom and Dad(aka the booby and the elbow)
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Marshall's First Christmas
Its been a great day so far. Marshall is already on board with his duties as he excitedly started his terydactyl impersonation at about 6 am. Granted, he was asleep at about 7pm last night...
Its kinda wild since, for just about everyone else, this is just a normal day that some places have off and some people celebrate...kinda like Veteran's day.
We started the morning with presents. We kept it simple this year as you can see from our sparsely present-ed "tree"...
Ian got a silly plastic sac with wildlife pics on it from Marshall and a real ceramic coffee mug from me(he's been drinking out of plastic ones).
I got a pair of cool flip flops for the house that will help me from tracking dirt all over and a Malian baby carrier. Basically, a big piece of white cloth with pretty embroidery on it. Meant to be worn on the back. I'm going to try it later and will show pictures so you can see what a good job Ian did picking it out. Its fabulous and I hope it works because all of the Malian women think my current sling carrier that holds him in the front is completely ridiculous.
For Marshall, what 6 month old doesn't like a bunch of kitchen stuff to play with and bang on? Luckily, most of the stuff for that here is plastic and really brightly colored, so he got his own bucket full of it..Needless to say it was a hit...
We had some tasty spongy frufrus for breakfast. Basically sweet dumpling like things...
And then gave Marshall his other present. Ian and his fetish master made Marshall a fetish that is supposed to help him with teething(the teeth of a Savannah Monitor help somehow...) and also protect him for at least the next 20 years against evil spirits trying to eat his soul...something to do with vulture feathers and rock salt...seriously, see Ian's blog for a much better explanation. Granted, as special as this gift is, it obviously wasn't as fun as the plastic kitchen ware.
Right now, we are just enjoying a napping baby, relaxing with frufru full bellies. I am going to go out in bit and get a few last minute things for dinner, we'll watch a family movie and enjoy the peace of the day.
Wishing all of you the same day of peace, enjoyment of family and fun this Christmas Day.
Its kinda wild since, for just about everyone else, this is just a normal day that some places have off and some people celebrate...kinda like Veteran's day.
We started the morning with presents. We kept it simple this year as you can see from our sparsely present-ed "tree"...
Ian got a silly plastic sac with wildlife pics on it from Marshall and a real ceramic coffee mug from me(he's been drinking out of plastic ones).
I got a pair of cool flip flops for the house that will help me from tracking dirt all over and a Malian baby carrier. Basically, a big piece of white cloth with pretty embroidery on it. Meant to be worn on the back. I'm going to try it later and will show pictures so you can see what a good job Ian did picking it out. Its fabulous and I hope it works because all of the Malian women think my current sling carrier that holds him in the front is completely ridiculous.
For Marshall, what 6 month old doesn't like a bunch of kitchen stuff to play with and bang on? Luckily, most of the stuff for that here is plastic and really brightly colored, so he got his own bucket full of it..Needless to say it was a hit...
We had some tasty spongy frufrus for breakfast. Basically sweet dumpling like things...
And then gave Marshall his other present. Ian and his fetish master made Marshall a fetish that is supposed to help him with teething(the teeth of a Savannah Monitor help somehow...) and also protect him for at least the next 20 years against evil spirits trying to eat his soul...something to do with vulture feathers and rock salt...seriously, see Ian's blog for a much better explanation. Granted, as special as this gift is, it obviously wasn't as fun as the plastic kitchen ware.
Right now, we are just enjoying a napping baby, relaxing with frufru full bellies. I am going to go out in bit and get a few last minute things for dinner, we'll watch a family movie and enjoy the peace of the day.
Wishing all of you the same day of peace, enjoyment of family and fun this Christmas Day.
Monday, December 24, 2007
Things that make it Christmas no matter where we are...
I still can't wrap a present to save my life
We put a spending limit on each other ($5 this year) and then one of us breaks it
We have a special meal...on the menu this year, a lovely cut of beef, mashed potatoes, gorgeous green beans, fruit with yogurt and fancy euro chocolate. Oh, and the fantastic French bread we can get just down the street.
We get our "tree" the day before in a funny way. This year a stray "flower" from someone elses garden across the street that the gardener sold me for way too much(but its in pot...this, I guess means that its 5 times the price...).
Ian is busy making something at the last minute(currently working with his teacher on something special for Marshall. Its 4:30pm Christmas eve)
We make our cards and stick them in the tree
We're together
Looking forward to a fantastic first Christmas with Marshall. Its nice to "purify" it the first time...
Happy holidays to all and stay tuned tomorrow for pictures!
We put a spending limit on each other ($5 this year) and then one of us breaks it
We have a special meal...on the menu this year, a lovely cut of beef, mashed potatoes, gorgeous green beans, fruit with yogurt and fancy euro chocolate. Oh, and the fantastic French bread we can get just down the street.
We get our "tree" the day before in a funny way. This year a stray "flower" from someone elses garden across the street that the gardener sold me for way too much(but its in pot...this, I guess means that its 5 times the price...).
Ian is busy making something at the last minute(currently working with his teacher on something special for Marshall. Its 4:30pm Christmas eve)
We make our cards and stick them in the tree
We're together
Looking forward to a fantastic first Christmas with Marshall. Its nice to "purify" it the first time...
Happy holidays to all and stay tuned tomorrow for pictures!
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Our House
per many requests, photos of our house. sorry for the quality and positioning, having technical difficulties this morning...hopefully it gives a good idea.
A few of my favorite things...
The plesant honesty, "Jeneba(me), I was up last night hearing Kimby(Marshall) cry. Is he better now?" Not complaining, just statement of fact...
How everyone, despite their age, is still wearing their new Tabaski clothes like excited little kids
How even the most distinguished old man is not above making a fart joke
The two inch baby gecko that lives behind the armoire in our bedroom and occasionally comes out to eat the stray moscito that sneaks in
How Marshall literally bounces with glee everytime someone greets him
How Marshall thinks he can use the spoon to feed himself. Watching him take it from my hand like I don't know what I'm doing and purposefully smacking himself in the cheek with it, mouth wide open.
The nice musicians that live behind us who are my unoffical Bamabara tutors who ask me everyday where I am going and what I am buying and politely correct my language when i'm wrong.
The medival castle like building that the family that sells eggs lives in
How instead of zoning out to the TV every night, Ian and I spend time telling each other crazy stories of our days
The awkward, yet endearing woman that I buy my salad fixings from who, despite how little I may want to buy, gives me the same amount worth of stuff each time I see her, hunts me down in the market and interrupts my conversations and keeps giving me carrots for Marshall
The wonderful salt and incence vendor with the huge smile that I see everytime I go to buy bananas
How, when at the grocery store yesterday, one of the employees was literally in the middle of the store at a table very openly counting money
The cool patchwork hearts outfit that my new friend Fatime was wearing the other day. I will try to get a picture of it,..
The fact that no matter how hard I try to get out early each day, I always leave the house within 5 minutes of 10:38am
The local gangs(not like in the states, really just a club) that have spray painted their names in our area: "The Fiber Boys" and the "Petit Fiber Girls." I imagine a bunch of 13 year old boys running about throwing bran muffins at each other
How everyone, despite their age, is still wearing their new Tabaski clothes like excited little kids
How even the most distinguished old man is not above making a fart joke
The two inch baby gecko that lives behind the armoire in our bedroom and occasionally comes out to eat the stray moscito that sneaks in
How Marshall literally bounces with glee everytime someone greets him
How Marshall thinks he can use the spoon to feed himself. Watching him take it from my hand like I don't know what I'm doing and purposefully smacking himself in the cheek with it, mouth wide open.
The nice musicians that live behind us who are my unoffical Bamabara tutors who ask me everyday where I am going and what I am buying and politely correct my language when i'm wrong.
The medival castle like building that the family that sells eggs lives in
How instead of zoning out to the TV every night, Ian and I spend time telling each other crazy stories of our days
The awkward, yet endearing woman that I buy my salad fixings from who, despite how little I may want to buy, gives me the same amount worth of stuff each time I see her, hunts me down in the market and interrupts my conversations and keeps giving me carrots for Marshall
The wonderful salt and incence vendor with the huge smile that I see everytime I go to buy bananas
How, when at the grocery store yesterday, one of the employees was literally in the middle of the store at a table very openly counting money
The cool patchwork hearts outfit that my new friend Fatime was wearing the other day. I will try to get a picture of it,..
The fact that no matter how hard I try to get out early each day, I always leave the house within 5 minutes of 10:38am
The local gangs(not like in the states, really just a club) that have spray painted their names in our area: "The Fiber Boys" and the "Petit Fiber Girls." I imagine a bunch of 13 year old boys running about throwing bran muffins at each other
Friday, December 21, 2007
Tabaski...
It was fun seeing everyone all dressed up. Here are some great pics Ian took that show most of what we were able to see within feet of our front stoop. Most of them are just from that stoop, the view from our front door. Excuse the sheep heads, but its part of the day.
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Ian's blog...
For lots of fascinating info about traditional medicine and magic in Mali as well as just some other cool cultural tidbits, visit Ian's blog...http://adventuresinbamako.blogspot.com/.
Tabaski has not been all it should have been. We've been shafted. No grilled meat for us, even though we can smell it cooking everywhere. damn....lesson learned. Its been fun to watch the kids go by, though, all dressed up in their fancy new duds. We've been handing them out fancy French candies that we just tasted ourselves...that explains why they havent been banging down our door...
Tabaski has not been all it should have been. We've been shafted. No grilled meat for us, even though we can smell it cooking everywhere. damn....lesson learned. Its been fun to watch the kids go by, though, all dressed up in their fancy new duds. We've been handing them out fancy French candies that we just tasted ourselves...that explains why they havent been banging down our door...
Namasa
This is the bunch of bananas that Marshalls first real food came from. While snacking this morning, I gave him some to mush in his hand, it quickly went to the mouth and the hungry bird mouth began to form again and again as we gave him more. I honestly think he would have eaten the whole bunch if he could...
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
pictures
Marshall chillin' with the neighbors
Marshall yesterday
Marshall lounging on our luxurious poly-sateen and lace coverlet
Marshall and Ian keepin it real
How Ian passes his days
So, in Mali, there is a lot of joking that goes on based on last names. Its a light reminant of some past slave relationships and family feuds. The Coulibay's seem to be the butt of many jokes and are often seen as goofy folk. Abdolaye is a Coulibay...
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