Marshall is now five and a half months, just a couple of weeks away from that big milestone of being half a year old. He still screams and chatters away, something that is bizarre to most Malians I see. They aren’t used to a child of his age being so chatty and ask me if he’s walking as well. In order to protect him from the dust and the sun, I often walk about with him covered under a thin cloth. The looks are even stranger then.
He’s doing that fabulous pre crawling thing where he gets on all fours and rocks purposefully front and back, as if he’s revving the engine to go. Granted, we think he may be going backwards already, although, only subtly as we put him on his play mat, he is suddenly off it when we look back, and he hasn’t rolled over.
We tried some real food this week. A little rice cereal one day and some mashed banana the next. The rice cereal came back with a disapproving grimace. The banana, summoned a bit of a smile for the first bite, and a grimace for the next. Dooni, donni as they say here in Mali….little by little.
His favorite toy these days is a plastic linker (these things that form chains and attach toys to all sorts of things. A typical thing you’ll find in the home of an infant these days) that is green with an elephant head on top. It entertains him for hours. So much for the play mat and 500 other toys we brought…
As the teeth continue to come in(not fully, yet, but they are moving about) and life changes for Marshall, he is a bit fussy, but always calmed by a trip out to greet the people. He loves people and we can sit and chat for hours while he grins and laughs as he’s passed around. I swear some days, he’d go home with just about anyone.
I need some batteries for my camera and will send some new pictures then. No major changes in appearance, just a little dusty.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Keeping Clean
This seems to be the theme of this past week. As you can imagine, the health of all of us relies on this being true, even more so with a teething and soon to be crawling infant who wants to go everywhere and taste everything.
We moved into our house on Thursday. We were both still a tad sick, and Marshall’s teeth had been keeping him up quite a bit. In other words, we were tired and weary, just wanting a place to call home. As a result, when looking at our new home, we saw it with rose colored glasses. Upon moving in, we found it in need of a bit more love and affection than we had seen at first glance.
The place has not been lived in in quite a bit. Everything was covered in a layer of thick red dust. It was musty, and as we soon discovered missing a few things. Some screens are broken, there is no screening over some decorative openings in our central wall, allowing some vines from our landlady’s gorgeous garden to come creeping in, and most importantly, there is no hot water.
Ian had asked about the hot water when we arrived and was given a placating, “Oh, that can be fixed…” passive response. It doesn’t seem to be too placating as a plumber came by today and should be working on the issue…granted, we have no idea how. He looked and left without a word. In the meantime, we’ve resorted to our Peace Corps days and are heating hot water over the stove and taking bucket baths(not as pitiful as it may sound, actually quite nice). Regardless, we would love to use our shower with the great shower head. Its just not hot enough yet to enjoy the frigid water that comes out of it. Its also nice for washing dishes, hands, and all the million other things we need to keep clean. We’ll see if the plumber comes back.
We have most of the Western amenities we could want: real toilet, a shower, a fridge, an oven and range, a microwave even(although there is no place to plug it in), A/C and ceiling fans throughout. There is even a TV/VCR set, although even Ian, the former Radio Shack employee, can’t quite seem to figure out the 700 cords that seem to come from it.
The most unexpected item, though, is a washing machine. We were all ready to pay someone to do this for us, and were surprised to find it in our bathroom. It’s a crazy little thing, about the size and shape of a midsize fridge. It has all of these numbers and symbols up top that I assume are to be universal, although neither one of us can figure out what they mean. After about 2 hours of pushing buttons, turning dials and finally figuring out the water wasn’t on, we put our first batch of clothes in and hoped for the best. The machine quickly locked itself and Ian said to me, “Ok, so I guess it will give us our clothes back when its ready.” Luckily, an hour later, it did so. We have developed a good relationship with it now. It washes our clothes nicely and gives them back in a timely manner, as long as we leave it be and let it do its job.
As we no longer have to pay someone to wash our clothes, while I was sick, Ian assumed we still needed someone to come and clean the house, so he arranged for the sister of a guy from our hotel to come by and take a look. First, lets make it totally clear that Ian and I are the most awkward people in the world when it comes to domestic assistance. Its one of those sad things that neither one of us is strong in. We feel weird having people do these things for us, even when necessary or terribly convenient. We feel a need to make it clear that we don’t feel like we’re any better or anything and end up spending more time guiltily chatting with the person than allowing them to get their work done.
So theres some context that brought us into our strange relationship with our now, house helper, Abdolaye. So, Fatime, the sister, came by to check things out. We awkwardly explain what we want, which, so as to not seem too greedy, we limit to cleaning our floors with the occasional need for other things. Twice a week. We ask how much and she wont make the call. Crap. Now we have to determine not only a fair price, but a fair MALIAN price for such services. We can’t lowball, but neither can we make it too high…We offer something up and make it clear that we don’t know what we’re doing and suggest she go and talk to her family and friends about it. She says her brother might be more well suited.
The next day, she and Abdolaye, dressed to the nines, show up at our door. He’s ok with the price and the work. I am the only one here, so I keep my fingers crossed that I haven’t lost anything in translation. We arrange for him to start the next day. Luckily Ian is here when he arrives so that between the two of us, we are able to figure out what bright eyed Abdolaye has planned. He is offering for a little more than double the price of what we offered him to come to work every day and be on “retainer” for us. He will do anything we need of him for this price and is all but bowing as he’s proposing it to us. Now that he’s even asked for “work clothes,” we realize that he thinks he’s our butler. Just too weird and plays upon our neuroses even more.
Needless to say that Abdolaye now comes on Mondays and Saturdays to clean the floors and, as a bonus, provide us with some cultural insights and assistance where needed. Last night, I wanted to make something with chicken for dinner. Malians get their chickens live at the market and kill them fresh for eating. Yeah…not that I couldn’t do that, but just not into it. Not to mention, we don’t have the large open outdoor space appropriate for such a thing. I asked Abdolaye, how to deal with such a situation and he nicely went out and got me a fresh chicken, had a friend kill it and clean it on up. The head was still attached, but hey, it was one step away from a fryer chicken at Safeway.
Its really weird and awkward for all of us to have a “house boy,” and things may evolve if and when I go to work, it may be more culturally appropriate to have a woman come and watch Marshall. For the time being, he’s helping us keep it clean.
We moved into our house on Thursday. We were both still a tad sick, and Marshall’s teeth had been keeping him up quite a bit. In other words, we were tired and weary, just wanting a place to call home. As a result, when looking at our new home, we saw it with rose colored glasses. Upon moving in, we found it in need of a bit more love and affection than we had seen at first glance.
The place has not been lived in in quite a bit. Everything was covered in a layer of thick red dust. It was musty, and as we soon discovered missing a few things. Some screens are broken, there is no screening over some decorative openings in our central wall, allowing some vines from our landlady’s gorgeous garden to come creeping in, and most importantly, there is no hot water.
Ian had asked about the hot water when we arrived and was given a placating, “Oh, that can be fixed…” passive response. It doesn’t seem to be too placating as a plumber came by today and should be working on the issue…granted, we have no idea how. He looked and left without a word. In the meantime, we’ve resorted to our Peace Corps days and are heating hot water over the stove and taking bucket baths(not as pitiful as it may sound, actually quite nice). Regardless, we would love to use our shower with the great shower head. Its just not hot enough yet to enjoy the frigid water that comes out of it. Its also nice for washing dishes, hands, and all the million other things we need to keep clean. We’ll see if the plumber comes back.
We have most of the Western amenities we could want: real toilet, a shower, a fridge, an oven and range, a microwave even(although there is no place to plug it in), A/C and ceiling fans throughout. There is even a TV/VCR set, although even Ian, the former Radio Shack employee, can’t quite seem to figure out the 700 cords that seem to come from it.
The most unexpected item, though, is a washing machine. We were all ready to pay someone to do this for us, and were surprised to find it in our bathroom. It’s a crazy little thing, about the size and shape of a midsize fridge. It has all of these numbers and symbols up top that I assume are to be universal, although neither one of us can figure out what they mean. After about 2 hours of pushing buttons, turning dials and finally figuring out the water wasn’t on, we put our first batch of clothes in and hoped for the best. The machine quickly locked itself and Ian said to me, “Ok, so I guess it will give us our clothes back when its ready.” Luckily, an hour later, it did so. We have developed a good relationship with it now. It washes our clothes nicely and gives them back in a timely manner, as long as we leave it be and let it do its job.
As we no longer have to pay someone to wash our clothes, while I was sick, Ian assumed we still needed someone to come and clean the house, so he arranged for the sister of a guy from our hotel to come by and take a look. First, lets make it totally clear that Ian and I are the most awkward people in the world when it comes to domestic assistance. Its one of those sad things that neither one of us is strong in. We feel weird having people do these things for us, even when necessary or terribly convenient. We feel a need to make it clear that we don’t feel like we’re any better or anything and end up spending more time guiltily chatting with the person than allowing them to get their work done.
So theres some context that brought us into our strange relationship with our now, house helper, Abdolaye. So, Fatime, the sister, came by to check things out. We awkwardly explain what we want, which, so as to not seem too greedy, we limit to cleaning our floors with the occasional need for other things. Twice a week. We ask how much and she wont make the call. Crap. Now we have to determine not only a fair price, but a fair MALIAN price for such services. We can’t lowball, but neither can we make it too high…We offer something up and make it clear that we don’t know what we’re doing and suggest she go and talk to her family and friends about it. She says her brother might be more well suited.
The next day, she and Abdolaye, dressed to the nines, show up at our door. He’s ok with the price and the work. I am the only one here, so I keep my fingers crossed that I haven’t lost anything in translation. We arrange for him to start the next day. Luckily Ian is here when he arrives so that between the two of us, we are able to figure out what bright eyed Abdolaye has planned. He is offering for a little more than double the price of what we offered him to come to work every day and be on “retainer” for us. He will do anything we need of him for this price and is all but bowing as he’s proposing it to us. Now that he’s even asked for “work clothes,” we realize that he thinks he’s our butler. Just too weird and plays upon our neuroses even more.
Needless to say that Abdolaye now comes on Mondays and Saturdays to clean the floors and, as a bonus, provide us with some cultural insights and assistance where needed. Last night, I wanted to make something with chicken for dinner. Malians get their chickens live at the market and kill them fresh for eating. Yeah…not that I couldn’t do that, but just not into it. Not to mention, we don’t have the large open outdoor space appropriate for such a thing. I asked Abdolaye, how to deal with such a situation and he nicely went out and got me a fresh chicken, had a friend kill it and clean it on up. The head was still attached, but hey, it was one step away from a fryer chicken at Safeway.
Its really weird and awkward for all of us to have a “house boy,” and things may evolve if and when I go to work, it may be more culturally appropriate to have a woman come and watch Marshall. For the time being, he’s helping us keep it clean.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Home!
We have a house! Well, I guess an apartment in the same compound with some French woman yet to be met but who has a very nice new car and an incredible yard. Just across the way is a sweet garden. Its in Missira(pr. Meeseera), a shady area of town where all the tailors work. There are weavers just outside our door. The calm Medina market is just up the street and Ian can walk to his reseach locale in 10-15 minutes. We couldnt ask for more. Marshall and I are waiting with our bags for Ian to come back from doing all the paperwork. He's been practicing his wave
Monday, December 3, 2007
Sick Day
Ugh. I caught something on the plane and now have a really annoying low grade fever and head cold. I thought it was allergies last night, often something that happens to me when a ceiling fan and a/c are reintroduced to my life. Marshall is not happy that I'm not feeling well. The typical dream sleeper was up at least 6 times last night. Didn’t help our demeanor when we traversed town to the American Embassy to meet with Ian’s liaison there and had to wait an hour and a half. Its supposedly a crazy week, Martin Scorcese, a famous artist and some NBA stars are coming to Mali next week.
Regardless, she was a lovely lady and was able to get Ian set up with all sorts of clearances. She also may have a job for me, which I had given up on. By the end of the meeting though, I was about to pass out. Ok, that may be a bit dramatic, but I was not feeling well. Needless to say, I have spent the whole afternoon and evening locked in the hotel room trying to sleep, watching weird Malian TV…public service ads on handling pesticide, some Brazilian soap opera dubbed in French, some music videos, Christian programming, a press conference with the local police about preventing traffic accidents. Luckily, with some food, Tylenol, Dayquil and a bit of a nap, I am starting to feel better.
Marshall and I have been able to spend some great time together, too. He is such a champ and handling all of this change so well. Last night he met a sweet little Lebanese girl named Dina. She’s probably about 7 and is the daughter of the owners of a little bar/restaurant next to our hotel. Marshall thought she was the funniest thing he’d ever seen, for about 15 minutes she kept him laughing. We saw her again today at lunch and it was the same thing. Unfortunately, I think she thought he was a doll as she kept adjusting his shirt, taking his hat on and off and pulling him into her so she could kiss him. Whatever, it most definitely made him happy.
He’s rolling all over the place these days and is getting really good at picking up smaller and smaller things. I think he’ll be crawling in the month. He’s so good with strangers, which is a good thing because, as I now live in a place where it’s the village that takes care of the child, he is passed around regularly. Just the men, though…its interesting.
He is often tired, though. He knows we aren’t in the states anymore and is afraid if he sleeps he is going to miss something. Granted, he probably would.
It looks like we may have found a place to live, although it isn’t at all what we thought. Ian went on a wild goose chase this afternoon looking at places while I rested. We'll see where it all leads tomorrow. Here is our broker…
Yes, he is an antiques dealer, or as Ian said, “That’s one of his cards from yesterday
Regardless, she was a lovely lady and was able to get Ian set up with all sorts of clearances. She also may have a job for me, which I had given up on. By the end of the meeting though, I was about to pass out. Ok, that may be a bit dramatic, but I was not feeling well. Needless to say, I have spent the whole afternoon and evening locked in the hotel room trying to sleep, watching weird Malian TV…public service ads on handling pesticide, some Brazilian soap opera dubbed in French, some music videos, Christian programming, a press conference with the local police about preventing traffic accidents. Luckily, with some food, Tylenol, Dayquil and a bit of a nap, I am starting to feel better.
Marshall and I have been able to spend some great time together, too. He is such a champ and handling all of this change so well. Last night he met a sweet little Lebanese girl named Dina. She’s probably about 7 and is the daughter of the owners of a little bar/restaurant next to our hotel. Marshall thought she was the funniest thing he’d ever seen, for about 15 minutes she kept him laughing. We saw her again today at lunch and it was the same thing. Unfortunately, I think she thought he was a doll as she kept adjusting his shirt, taking his hat on and off and pulling him into her so she could kiss him. Whatever, it most definitely made him happy.
He’s rolling all over the place these days and is getting really good at picking up smaller and smaller things. I think he’ll be crawling in the month. He’s so good with strangers, which is a good thing because, as I now live in a place where it’s the village that takes care of the child, he is passed around regularly. Just the men, though…its interesting.
He is often tired, though. He knows we aren’t in the states anymore and is afraid if he sleeps he is going to miss something. Granted, he probably would.
It looks like we may have found a place to live, although it isn’t at all what we thought. Ian went on a wild goose chase this afternoon looking at places while I rested. We'll see where it all leads tomorrow. Here is our broker…
Yes, he is an antiques dealer, or as Ian said, “That’s one of his cards from yesterday
Saturday, December 1, 2007
San Ji=Rain...literally sky water
Today was a bit of a lazy day cool day due to some light rain. We left the swanky hotel finally! There were some people giving us dirty looks every time Marshall made a noise, happy ones mind you. One of us was about to say something inappropriate to them…
After watching in amazement as 5 guys packed our luggage that took up most of a land rover when we arrived into the back of a hatchback pugeot, we arrived at hotel tamana which feels so much better. Its this three story crazy terraced building with a great big rubber tree and a great big flamboyant tree offering a superb shaded courtyard. Here is the link for great pictures http://www.hoteltamana.com/anglais/enter.htm. It tried to take one to show the stereotypical image with the mosquito nets, but not so good…
We then had to try this place across the street called “the Crazy Horse.” Yes, in English. So odd…owned by some folks from India, there is some Indian fare, but its mostly bar food…brochettes, burgers, meat sandwiches…they did offer the only Malian value meal I’ve seen yet(Hamburger assiette!, Buger, fries and a soda, $5). It was bizarre. There is a boutique attached to it that sells mostly toilet paper, cereal and then all sorts of booze(Jim Beam, Johnny Walker, etc).
We came back here, got some rest and met up with our taxi friend, Sidibe, who is working on helping us find a place to live. Its crazy…lots of options, lots of pressure, and as well there should be as the guy who brokers the deal gets a half a months rent. Lots of conflicting information, lots of wacky guys, but some good leads. Confident we’ll be in a place soon. It was funny, as they came, they often ran into me first. I am officially treated as a Malian woman now. They lazily greet me, don’t make eye contact and ask for my man. I guess these are the things I need to get used to being a kept woman! We shared a great meal with a sweet young Brit named Sam who is now out with Ian sharing his first Castel (Malian beer made with formaldahide to stop the fermentation process). We are still getting some dirty looks but they are much less here.
Marshall awakes now. The mosquito net is something he has a love hate relationship with and I need to tend to him before it stops being intriguing. In the meantime, here are some lists I put together today…
A list of things I want to do this time around in Mali:
1. Read a Malian newspaper at least weekly
2. Hang out with the street food ladies and learn how to make the following really well. Most of the ingredients are simple, but is all in the technique that makes it oh so good when done right:
sho(beans)
steamed bean cakes
tiga diga na(peanut sauce)
zame(yummy rice)
she(chicken, again, done just right)
yassa(tangy onion sauce with chicken or fish)
plaintains
fried dough ball things in a spicy sauce(I guess I should learn the name of this…)
more things that I can’t think of right now.
3. Eat a mango every day.
4. Feel fluent in French and bambara
5. Learn how to greet in at least 5 other languages spoken in Mali
6. See at least 3 Malian films in local venues
7. Read more
8. Write more
9. Make more Malian friends
10. Pay closer attention
11. Do yoga every day
Things I want Marshall to experience while here
1. The sense of a village even in a city
2. Laughing every day
3. Bright colors and cool sounds
4. Two parents with time to love and appreciate him
5. Lots of languages
6. All sorts of friends
7. Being entertained by the simplest of things
Bambara/French words I learned today(or relearned)
Manguru=Mango. Seriously, Ian and I BOTH were at a loss for this all too often used word
Anolos=Plaintain
Hope to add some Fulani words to that one soon. My Malian last name is a Fulani last name(its important to have Malian names to connect in a lot of ways culturally. We dubbed or friend Sam, Solo Djarra) and as I ran across a Fulani man, I was told what I bad Fulani woman I was for not speaking his language. Shame on me!
After watching in amazement as 5 guys packed our luggage that took up most of a land rover when we arrived into the back of a hatchback pugeot, we arrived at hotel tamana which feels so much better. Its this three story crazy terraced building with a great big rubber tree and a great big flamboyant tree offering a superb shaded courtyard. Here is the link for great pictures http://www.hoteltamana.com/anglais/enter.htm. It tried to take one to show the stereotypical image with the mosquito nets, but not so good…
We then had to try this place across the street called “the Crazy Horse.” Yes, in English. So odd…owned by some folks from India, there is some Indian fare, but its mostly bar food…brochettes, burgers, meat sandwiches…they did offer the only Malian value meal I’ve seen yet(Hamburger assiette!, Buger, fries and a soda, $5). It was bizarre. There is a boutique attached to it that sells mostly toilet paper, cereal and then all sorts of booze(Jim Beam, Johnny Walker, etc).
We came back here, got some rest and met up with our taxi friend, Sidibe, who is working on helping us find a place to live. Its crazy…lots of options, lots of pressure, and as well there should be as the guy who brokers the deal gets a half a months rent. Lots of conflicting information, lots of wacky guys, but some good leads. Confident we’ll be in a place soon. It was funny, as they came, they often ran into me first. I am officially treated as a Malian woman now. They lazily greet me, don’t make eye contact and ask for my man. I guess these are the things I need to get used to being a kept woman! We shared a great meal with a sweet young Brit named Sam who is now out with Ian sharing his first Castel (Malian beer made with formaldahide to stop the fermentation process). We are still getting some dirty looks but they are much less here.
Marshall awakes now. The mosquito net is something he has a love hate relationship with and I need to tend to him before it stops being intriguing. In the meantime, here are some lists I put together today…
A list of things I want to do this time around in Mali:
1. Read a Malian newspaper at least weekly
2. Hang out with the street food ladies and learn how to make the following really well. Most of the ingredients are simple, but is all in the technique that makes it oh so good when done right:
sho(beans)
steamed bean cakes
tiga diga na(peanut sauce)
zame(yummy rice)
she(chicken, again, done just right)
yassa(tangy onion sauce with chicken or fish)
plaintains
fried dough ball things in a spicy sauce(I guess I should learn the name of this…)
more things that I can’t think of right now.
3. Eat a mango every day.
4. Feel fluent in French and bambara
5. Learn how to greet in at least 5 other languages spoken in Mali
6. See at least 3 Malian films in local venues
7. Read more
8. Write more
9. Make more Malian friends
10. Pay closer attention
11. Do yoga every day
Things I want Marshall to experience while here
1. The sense of a village even in a city
2. Laughing every day
3. Bright colors and cool sounds
4. Two parents with time to love and appreciate him
5. Lots of languages
6. All sorts of friends
7. Being entertained by the simplest of things
Bambara/French words I learned today(or relearned)
Manguru=Mango. Seriously, Ian and I BOTH were at a loss for this all too often used word
Anolos=Plaintain
Hope to add some Fulani words to that one soon. My Malian last name is a Fulani last name(its important to have Malian names to connect in a lot of ways culturally. We dubbed or friend Sam, Solo Djarra) and as I ran across a Fulani man, I was told what I bad Fulani woman I was for not speaking his language. Shame on me!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Le Grand Voyage!
We’re here! Finally. What a trip. So much to say!!!! Here is a picture from before we moved out of our place:
And here is one now:
As you can see, not much has changed, really. We are still living out of a ton of suitcases, just in a different place on a different continent.
We survived 30 hours of plane/airport travel and thanks to having a charming child and a great friend from the Embassy, we were able to zip right through the insanity of the Bamako airport on Wednesday night and finally crash at our hotel around 1am.
The plane rides were Marshall’s first. I meant to document that with a picture, but I have already been scolded for packing my camera in my checked luggage, so unfortunately, this one documenting his first time in a foreign country(the Paris airport) will have to do.
For those of you with babies looking to fly internationally, Air France is THE BEST. First, they LOVE babies. He was cooed at and tickled enough to make a grandparent proud. Second, they offer them first class service. Marshall had a great little bassinet that snapped on the wall in front of my seat, he got a few little plush toys to play with and if we had wanted, he could have gotten a baby meal with another toy and goodies to boot. He got some rest. He did great.
We’ve been staying at a relatively swank hotel since arriving here(the Mande for those RPCV friends of ours who are reading this), and I have to admit, I feel a bit sheltered. Not only because of the swankiness, but it is also somewhat isolated from town. Tomorrow, we are moving to the Hotel Tamana(just behind the Express and Akwaba) where things are cheaper and more centrally located.
I can’t really explain what its like to be back besides great. We’re both already letting go of all those things that bind us such as clocks, levels of cleanliness, etc. We are laughing with new friends and enjoying being here as “real” adults in the minds of Malians. See, before, to be 23, single and childless, it was as if we were still children. But now, I see things changing. Although we are still white as can be and obviously different, we are more equal. The child breaks down so many walls and we are welcomed into a Mali that I, for sure, don’t remember.
Today we really braved Bamako(yesterday was mostly spent recouperating). We saw Ian’s main informant and dear friend, Kara. We walked through the Grande Marchee in front of the Mosque before prayer time on Friday(this would fit the images you may have of a bustling third world African country, for sure). We took tea, ate some Lebanese food, got our feet dirty and enjoyed a cold beverage under a mango tree.
I’m much more excited than I thought I would be. Internet is currently pretty pricey, so I hope to figure out how to get it cheaper so I can keep this up to date. For now, I’m having to respond to emails and do this in word and cut and paste. Hope to have a place to live and all of that arranged by the middle of next week.
Happy holiday season to all of you!
And here is one now:
As you can see, not much has changed, really. We are still living out of a ton of suitcases, just in a different place on a different continent.
We survived 30 hours of plane/airport travel and thanks to having a charming child and a great friend from the Embassy, we were able to zip right through the insanity of the Bamako airport on Wednesday night and finally crash at our hotel around 1am.
The plane rides were Marshall’s first. I meant to document that with a picture, but I have already been scolded for packing my camera in my checked luggage, so unfortunately, this one documenting his first time in a foreign country(the Paris airport) will have to do.
For those of you with babies looking to fly internationally, Air France is THE BEST. First, they LOVE babies. He was cooed at and tickled enough to make a grandparent proud. Second, they offer them first class service. Marshall had a great little bassinet that snapped on the wall in front of my seat, he got a few little plush toys to play with and if we had wanted, he could have gotten a baby meal with another toy and goodies to boot. He got some rest. He did great.
We’ve been staying at a relatively swank hotel since arriving here(the Mande for those RPCV friends of ours who are reading this), and I have to admit, I feel a bit sheltered. Not only because of the swankiness, but it is also somewhat isolated from town. Tomorrow, we are moving to the Hotel Tamana(just behind the Express and Akwaba) where things are cheaper and more centrally located.
I can’t really explain what its like to be back besides great. We’re both already letting go of all those things that bind us such as clocks, levels of cleanliness, etc. We are laughing with new friends and enjoying being here as “real” adults in the minds of Malians. See, before, to be 23, single and childless, it was as if we were still children. But now, I see things changing. Although we are still white as can be and obviously different, we are more equal. The child breaks down so many walls and we are welcomed into a Mali that I, for sure, don’t remember.
Today we really braved Bamako(yesterday was mostly spent recouperating). We saw Ian’s main informant and dear friend, Kara. We walked through the Grande Marchee in front of the Mosque before prayer time on Friday(this would fit the images you may have of a bustling third world African country, for sure). We took tea, ate some Lebanese food, got our feet dirty and enjoyed a cold beverage under a mango tree.
I’m much more excited than I thought I would be. Internet is currently pretty pricey, so I hope to figure out how to get it cheaper so I can keep this up to date. For now, I’m having to respond to emails and do this in word and cut and paste. Hope to have a place to live and all of that arranged by the middle of next week.
Happy holiday season to all of you!
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Packing and Saying Goodbye
Well, I was going to post a picture of all our stuff, but honestly, have no idea where the camera has ended up in all this mess. Actually, we are doing pretty well. I am trying to release some of my "stuff" neuroses that all moms have. What if he wants his bath time book on the plane and the baby faces one doesn't cut it? What if he goes through more diapers than I pack for traveling? Should I bring more clothes/blankets/toys? Do I have enough bug spray and sunscreen?
Bamako isn't the end of the world. I know that there are babies there that are just fine without all of these things and if things are needed, they can easily be obtained...its just stuff issues. Seems that all moms I talk to have it. Thats the real reason our diaper bags are so damn big. I must admit, I did get a new bag for the trip. My current one was simply not big enough.
We've seen a lot a great friends over the past couple of weeks as we wrap things up here in Eugene. Its amazing the wonderful people we've met in such a short period of time since having Marshall. He is going to miss certain people a lot. His big buddy Isaac and all the great walks they took together...sweet babies he smiles at a lot in movement class like Maddox, Arianna and Fiona...his dear auntie Becky who always makes him giggle.
But most of all he'll miss his canine brothers Flynt and Max who today are hopping in the car with us and going out to Eastern Oregon where they will romp and play in the wilderness for the next nine months with their cousins. Its a sad day. Who will lick his feet clean? Who will sit patiently while he yanks on their fur and screams with glee so loud their ears should bleed? They have been good, protective and sweet big brothers and we can only hope they will be as patient and sweet when Marshall returns as a toddler able to chase them and grab even larger and tighter those handfulls of hair.
Just about one week from this moment we will be in Mali. I will try to find the camera to capture first impressions, plane rides and the works...
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Bamako isn't the end of the world. I know that there are babies there that are just fine without all of these things and if things are needed, they can easily be obtained...its just stuff issues. Seems that all moms I talk to have it. Thats the real reason our diaper bags are so damn big. I must admit, I did get a new bag for the trip. My current one was simply not big enough.
We've seen a lot a great friends over the past couple of weeks as we wrap things up here in Eugene. Its amazing the wonderful people we've met in such a short period of time since having Marshall. He is going to miss certain people a lot. His big buddy Isaac and all the great walks they took together...sweet babies he smiles at a lot in movement class like Maddox, Arianna and Fiona...his dear auntie Becky who always makes him giggle.
But most of all he'll miss his canine brothers Flynt and Max who today are hopping in the car with us and going out to Eastern Oregon where they will romp and play in the wilderness for the next nine months with their cousins. Its a sad day. Who will lick his feet clean? Who will sit patiently while he yanks on their fur and screams with glee so loud their ears should bleed? They have been good, protective and sweet big brothers and we can only hope they will be as patient and sweet when Marshall returns as a toddler able to chase them and grab even larger and tighter those handfulls of hair.
Just about one week from this moment we will be in Mali. I will try to find the camera to capture first impressions, plane rides and the works...
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
The best passport picture EVER
I've been meaning to post this ever since it was taken. This may even be the best picture ever taken of him...the photographer was so proud of himself. Shame its only good for 5 years.
Fun fact: by the time Marshall gets back from his voyage(and actually, before he turns one), he will have visited approximately 3% of the countries on this planet. At least. Easy enough to cover them all starting out like that!
Today is Halloween(unfortunately, I can't download the pumpkin patch picture off the phone...) and less than one month before leaving. Marshall must know its getting close as he has been doing all sorts of preparations. This week he officially started rolling from belly to back(it has just been sporadic until now), hes pushing himself up to belly button, and last, but most definitely not least, he got his first tooth. We're so proud.
Next up some thoughts about the "stuff." It takes on a whole new meaning when it comes to a 27 hour plane ride and nine months away...Ian is going to kill me when more cloth diapers arrive in the mail.
Friday, September 21, 2007
"Do you know this is a REALLY bad idea?"
We went to see a not to be named physician yesterday who, without even an introduction, asked us over the rim of his glasses if we knew that taking Marshall to Mali was a really bad idea. Not once but THREE TIMES. A little bit of context. Ian and I were there to get our yellow fever vaccinations required to travel to Mali. Marshall was simply along for the ride and this man had not one bit of pediatrician in him. He then kept us there for an hour and a half, most of the time pouting that we would not agree to postpone our trip for a year based on his omnipotent Dr. God advice. The topper was his almost shock and suprise that we had already identified a lead on a pediatrican (from other crazy Americans living there with babies younger than Marshall) in Bamako where we will be living. Bottom line, none of us like this man. If you ever need a yellow fever shot in Eugene, let me know and I will out him so you do not have to go through this business.
We understand that many people, unlike this so called doctor, actually care about Marshall, don't want him hurt and worry based off of the information they have about taking a baby to the third world in general. So, for anyone that may be reading, wondering the same thing, some clarification on the whole taking a small baby to Mali.
I can't find it now, but a recent post by the CDC on their website about travelling with children to Mali(that I am pretty sure is what this yahoo read) sounded really scary by stating "the rates of infant mortality and morbidity in Mali are extremely high." Honestly, this is one of the first things I read and I, too, was wondering if this was really a good idea. If we take a good look at this statement, it is true. MALIAN infant mortality and morbidity rates are high. The life of an average Malian infant? Well, they have limited, if no, access to medical care. They, and the mothers that feed them are malnourished. They are exposed to untreated water regularly that has all sorts of nasty little things swimming in it. They do not sleep with mosquito nets.
Marshall will have access to all the medical care we can get him in the capital where we will be living and where care is not far away. Should he need more than Mali can provide, our comprehensive travel health insurance covers evacuating him to Europe or the US for further care. We will both be well nourished, living on an income that is exponentially higher than the average Malian family. His water will be treated, he will sleep under a net. In otherwords, Marshall will not be living the life of an average Malian infant.
Dr. Not so Smart Ass also thought he should ask if we are ok with the 50% chance that Marshall could die from yellow fever. What a ludicrous question to ask someone who is otherwise sane...I got similar comments and questions when I was 3 weeks overdue with him as well. Am I ok with such a high chance my child will die?!! Its like asking if I'm ok with dropping him from the roof of a 20 story building into a burning pit! Of course I am not ok with that! And of course I would do everything in my power to avoid such harm to my precious child! If I have chosen this path, it is being comfortable with the risks I am taking and knowing he is again, speaking out of context. There is less than a 1% chace Marshall will contract yellow fever and from there, a 15% chance he would die. In fact, the chance of Marshall dying from any infection is less than 1% while there. He has a better chance of being killed in a car accident(less than stateside I might add) than from any horrible disease. The chances of him dying from the flu or pneumonia here in the states? 2.7%...
Am I sounding mad enough yet? He warped a statement that 50% of yellow fever cases that are TOXIC(only one third of yellow fever cases) end in death. What a horrible thing to say to new first time parents!
Ok, so final thought on this matter in case you are still worried in a caring way. The last outbreak of yellow fever in Mali was in 1987. The last "incident" was in 2005, 400 miles away from where we will be. 14 people did die then. The world health community responded with sending 4.2 million doses of vaccine to surrounding areas. This year, Mali is part of a multi country $562 million project to eradicate the last bits of yellow fever in West Africa. They even beleive that malaria may be nipped in the bud in the next few years.
We understand that many people, unlike this so called doctor, actually care about Marshall, don't want him hurt and worry based off of the information they have about taking a baby to the third world in general. So, for anyone that may be reading, wondering the same thing, some clarification on the whole taking a small baby to Mali.
I can't find it now, but a recent post by the CDC on their website about travelling with children to Mali(that I am pretty sure is what this yahoo read) sounded really scary by stating "the rates of infant mortality and morbidity in Mali are extremely high." Honestly, this is one of the first things I read and I, too, was wondering if this was really a good idea. If we take a good look at this statement, it is true. MALIAN infant mortality and morbidity rates are high. The life of an average Malian infant? Well, they have limited, if no, access to medical care. They, and the mothers that feed them are malnourished. They are exposed to untreated water regularly that has all sorts of nasty little things swimming in it. They do not sleep with mosquito nets.
Marshall will have access to all the medical care we can get him in the capital where we will be living and where care is not far away. Should he need more than Mali can provide, our comprehensive travel health insurance covers evacuating him to Europe or the US for further care. We will both be well nourished, living on an income that is exponentially higher than the average Malian family. His water will be treated, he will sleep under a net. In otherwords, Marshall will not be living the life of an average Malian infant.
Dr. Not so Smart Ass also thought he should ask if we are ok with the 50% chance that Marshall could die from yellow fever. What a ludicrous question to ask someone who is otherwise sane...I got similar comments and questions when I was 3 weeks overdue with him as well. Am I ok with such a high chance my child will die?!! Its like asking if I'm ok with dropping him from the roof of a 20 story building into a burning pit! Of course I am not ok with that! And of course I would do everything in my power to avoid such harm to my precious child! If I have chosen this path, it is being comfortable with the risks I am taking and knowing he is again, speaking out of context. There is less than a 1% chace Marshall will contract yellow fever and from there, a 15% chance he would die. In fact, the chance of Marshall dying from any infection is less than 1% while there. He has a better chance of being killed in a car accident(less than stateside I might add) than from any horrible disease. The chances of him dying from the flu or pneumonia here in the states? 2.7%...
Am I sounding mad enough yet? He warped a statement that 50% of yellow fever cases that are TOXIC(only one third of yellow fever cases) end in death. What a horrible thing to say to new first time parents!
Ok, so final thought on this matter in case you are still worried in a caring way. The last outbreak of yellow fever in Mali was in 1987. The last "incident" was in 2005, 400 miles away from where we will be. 14 people did die then. The world health community responded with sending 4.2 million doses of vaccine to surrounding areas. This year, Mali is part of a multi country $562 million project to eradicate the last bits of yellow fever in West Africa. They even beleive that malaria may be nipped in the bud in the next few years.
Marshall Darwin...
This is Marshall Darwin Edwards. Marshall is a happy, alert and extremely adored little one. After a week of labor, he came into this world with a roar on June 26, 2007. He was named after some dear family friends and, among other things and reasons, the scientist Charles Darwin. Although, did you know that Darwin also means "dear old friend?"Marshall and all of us(Dad Ian and Mom Steph) will be leaving for Mali in West Africa for 9 months at the end of November. This blog is intended to chart his, well, our, journey. There's no better way to start one's own story but with a real adventure....
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