Le Grand Voyage!

We’re here! Finally. What a trip. So much to say!!!! Here is a picture from before we moved out of our place:

And here is one now:



As you can see, not much has changed, really. We are still living out of a ton of suitcases, just in a different place on a different continent.

We survived 30 hours of plane/airport travel and thanks to having a charming child and a great friend from the Embassy, we were able to zip right through the insanity of the Bamako airport on Wednesday night and finally crash at our hotel around 1am.
The plane rides were Marshall’s first. I meant to document that with a picture, but I have already been scolded for packing my camera in my checked luggage, so unfortunately, this one documenting his first time in a foreign country(the Paris airport) will have to do.

For those of you with babies looking to fly internationally, Air France is THE BEST. First, they LOVE babies. He was cooed at and tickled enough to make a grandparent proud. Second, they offer them first class service. Marshall had a great little bassinet that snapped on the wall in front of my seat, he got a few little plush toys to play with and if we had wanted, he could have gotten a baby meal with another toy and goodies to boot. He got some rest. He did great.

We’ve been staying at a relatively swank hotel since arriving here(the Mande for those RPCV friends of ours who are reading this), and I have to admit, I feel a bit sheltered. Not only because of the swankiness, but it is also somewhat isolated from town. Tomorrow, we are moving to the Hotel Tamana(just behind the Express and Akwaba) where things are cheaper and more centrally located.

I can’t really explain what its like to be back besides great. We’re both already letting go of all those things that bind us such as clocks, levels of cleanliness, etc. We are laughing with new friends and enjoying being here as “real” adults in the minds of Malians. See, before, to be 23, single and childless, it was as if we were still children. But now, I see things changing. Although we are still white as can be and obviously different, we are more equal. The child breaks down so many walls and we are welcomed into a Mali that I, for sure, don’t remember.

Today we really braved Bamako(yesterday was mostly spent recouperating). We saw Ian’s main informant and dear friend, Kara. We walked through the Grande Marchee in front of the Mosque before prayer time on Friday(this would fit the images you may have of a bustling third world African country, for sure). We took tea, ate some Lebanese food, got our feet dirty and enjoyed a cold beverage under a mango tree.

I’m much more excited than I thought I would be. Internet is currently pretty pricey, so I hope to figure out how to get it cheaper so I can keep this up to date. For now, I’m having to respond to emails and do this in word and cut and paste. Hope to have a place to live and all of that arranged by the middle of next week.

Happy holiday season to all of you!

Packing and Saying Goodbye

Well, I was going to post a picture of all our stuff, but honestly, have no idea where the camera has ended up in all this mess. Actually, we are doing pretty well. I am trying to release some of my "stuff" neuroses that all moms have. What if he wants his bath time book on the plane and the baby faces one doesn't cut it? What if he goes through more diapers than I pack for traveling? Should I bring more clothes/blankets/toys? Do I have enough bug spray and sunscreen?
Bamako isn't the end of the world. I know that there are babies there that are just fine without all of these things and if things are needed, they can easily be obtained...its just stuff issues. Seems that all moms I talk to have it. Thats the real reason our diaper bags are so damn big. I must admit, I did get a new bag for the trip. My current one was simply not big enough.

We've seen a lot a great friends over the past couple of weeks as we wrap things up here in Eugene. Its amazing the wonderful people we've met in such a short period of time since having Marshall. He is going to miss certain people a lot. His big buddy Isaac and all the great walks they took together...sweet babies he smiles at a lot in movement class like Maddox, Arianna and Fiona...his dear auntie Becky who always makes him giggle.

But most of all he'll miss his canine brothers Flynt and Max who today are hopping in the car with us and going out to Eastern Oregon where they will romp and play in the wilderness for the next nine months with their cousins. Its a sad day. Who will lick his feet clean? Who will sit patiently while he yanks on their fur and screams with glee so loud their ears should bleed? They have been good, protective and sweet big brothers and we can only hope they will be as patient and sweet when Marshall returns as a toddler able to chase them and grab even larger and tighter those handfulls of hair.

Just about one week from this moment we will be in Mali. I will try to find the camera to capture first impressions, plane rides and the works...

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

The best passport picture EVER

I've been meaning to post this ever since it was taken. This may even be the best picture ever taken of him...the photographer was so proud of himself. Shame its only good for 5 years.

Fun fact: by the time Marshall gets back from his voyage(and actually, before he turns one), he will have visited approximately 3% of the countries on this planet. At least. Easy enough to cover them all starting out like that!

Today is Halloween(unfortunately, I can't download the pumpkin patch picture off the phone...) and less than one month before leaving. Marshall must know its getting close as he has been doing all sorts of preparations. This week he officially started rolling from belly to back(it has just been sporadic until now), hes pushing himself up to belly button, and last, but most definitely not least, he got his first tooth. We're so proud.

Next up some thoughts about the "stuff." It takes on a whole new meaning when it comes to a 27 hour plane ride and nine months away...Ian is going to kill me when more cloth diapers arrive in the mail.

"Do you know this is a REALLY bad idea?"

We went to see a not to be named physician yesterday who, without even an introduction, asked us over the rim of his glasses if we knew that taking Marshall to Mali was a really bad idea. Not once but THREE TIMES. A little bit of context. Ian and I were there to get our yellow fever vaccinations required to travel to Mali. Marshall was simply along for the ride and this man had not one bit of pediatrician in him. He then kept us there for an hour and a half, most of the time pouting that we would not agree to postpone our trip for a year based on his omnipotent Dr. God advice. The topper was his almost shock and suprise that we had already identified a lead on a pediatrican (from other crazy Americans living there with babies younger than Marshall) in Bamako where we will be living. Bottom line, none of us like this man. If you ever need a yellow fever shot in Eugene, let me know and I will out him so you do not have to go through this business.

We understand that many people, unlike this so called doctor, actually care about Marshall, don't want him hurt and worry based off of the information they have about taking a baby to the third world in general. So, for anyone that may be reading, wondering the same thing, some clarification on the whole taking a small baby to Mali.

I can't find it now, but a recent post by the CDC on their website about travelling with children to Mali(that I am pretty sure is what this yahoo read) sounded really scary by stating "the rates of infant mortality and morbidity in Mali are extremely high." Honestly, this is one of the first things I read and I, too, was wondering if this was really a good idea. If we take a good look at this statement, it is true. MALIAN infant mortality and morbidity rates are high. The life of an average Malian infant? Well, they have limited, if no, access to medical care. They, and the mothers that feed them are malnourished. They are exposed to untreated water regularly that has all sorts of nasty little things swimming in it. They do not sleep with mosquito nets.
Marshall will have access to all the medical care we can get him in the capital where we will be living and where care is not far away. Should he need more than Mali can provide, our comprehensive travel health insurance covers evacuating him to Europe or the US for further care. We will both be well nourished, living on an income that is exponentially higher than the average Malian family. His water will be treated, he will sleep under a net. In otherwords, Marshall will not be living the life of an average Malian infant.

Dr. Not so Smart Ass also thought he should ask if we are ok with the 50% chance that Marshall could die from yellow fever. What a ludicrous question to ask someone who is otherwise sane...I got similar comments and questions when I was 3 weeks overdue with him as well. Am I ok with such a high chance my child will die?!! Its like asking if I'm ok with dropping him from the roof of a 20 story building into a burning pit! Of course I am not ok with that! And of course I would do everything in my power to avoid such harm to my precious child! If I have chosen this path, it is being comfortable with the risks I am taking and knowing he is again, speaking out of context. There is less than a 1% chace Marshall will contract yellow fever and from there, a 15% chance he would die. In fact, the chance of Marshall dying from any infection is less than 1% while there. He has a better chance of being killed in a car accident(less than stateside I might add) than from any horrible disease. The chances of him dying from the flu or pneumonia here in the states? 2.7%...

Am I sounding mad enough yet? He warped a statement that 50% of yellow fever cases that are TOXIC(only one third of yellow fever cases) end in death. What a horrible thing to say to new first time parents!

Ok, so final thought on this matter in case you are still worried in a caring way. The last outbreak of yellow fever in Mali was in 1987. The last "incident" was in 2005, 400 miles away from where we will be. 14 people did die then. The world health community responded with sending 4.2 million doses of vaccine to surrounding areas. This year, Mali is part of a multi country $562 million project to eradicate the last bits of yellow fever in West Africa. They even beleive that malaria may be nipped in the bud in the next few years.

Marshall Darwin...

This is Marshall Darwin Edwards. Marshall is a happy, alert and extremely adored little one. After a week of labor, he came into this world with a roar on June 26, 2007. He was named after some dear family friends and, among other things and reasons, the scientist Charles Darwin. Although, did you know that Darwin also means "dear old friend?"
Marshall and all of us(Dad Ian and Mom Steph) will be leaving for Mali in West Africa for 9 months at the end of November. This blog is intended to chart his, well, our, journey. There's no better way to start one's own story but with a real adventure....