Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Marshall's First Christmas

Its been a great day so far. Marshall is already on board with his duties as he excitedly started his terydactyl impersonation at about 6 am. Granted, he was asleep at about 7pm last night...



Its kinda wild since, for just about everyone else, this is just a normal day that some places have off and some people celebrate...kinda like Veteran's day.

We started the morning with presents. We kept it simple this year as you can see from our sparsely present-ed "tree"...




Ian got a silly plastic sac with wildlife pics on it from Marshall and a real ceramic coffee mug from me(he's been drinking out of plastic ones).

I got a pair of cool flip flops for the house that will help me from tracking dirt all over and a Malian baby carrier. Basically, a big piece of white cloth with pretty embroidery on it. Meant to be worn on the back. I'm going to try it later and will show pictures so you can see what a good job Ian did picking it out. Its fabulous and I hope it works because all of the Malian women think my current sling carrier that holds him in the front is completely ridiculous.

For Marshall, what 6 month old doesn't like a bunch of kitchen stuff to play with and bang on? Luckily, most of the stuff for that here is plastic and really brightly colored, so he got his own bucket full of it..Needless to say it was a hit...







We had some tasty spongy frufrus for breakfast. Basically sweet dumpling like things...



And then gave Marshall his other present. Ian and his fetish master made Marshall a fetish that is supposed to help him with teething(the teeth of a Savannah Monitor help somehow...) and also protect him for at least the next 20 years against evil spirits trying to eat his soul...something to do with vulture feathers and rock salt...seriously, see Ian's blog for a much better explanation. Granted, as special as this gift is, it obviously wasn't as fun as the plastic kitchen ware.




Right now, we are just enjoying a napping baby, relaxing with frufru full bellies. I am going to go out in bit and get a few last minute things for dinner, we'll watch a family movie and enjoy the peace of the day.

Wishing all of you the same day of peace, enjoyment of family and fun this Christmas Day.

Monday, December 24, 2007

Things that make it Christmas no matter where we are...

I still can't wrap a present to save my life

We put a spending limit on each other ($5 this year) and then one of us breaks it

We have a special meal...on the menu this year, a lovely cut of beef, mashed potatoes, gorgeous green beans, fruit with yogurt and fancy euro chocolate. Oh, and the fantastic French bread we can get just down the street.

We get our "tree" the day before in a funny way. This year a stray "flower" from someone elses garden across the street that the gardener sold me for way too much(but its in pot...this, I guess means that its 5 times the price...).

Ian is busy making something at the last minute(currently working with his teacher on something special for Marshall. Its 4:30pm Christmas eve)

We make our cards and stick them in the tree

We're together


Looking forward to a fantastic first Christmas with Marshall. Its nice to "purify" it the first time...

Happy holidays to all and stay tuned tomorrow for pictures!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Our House

per many requests, photos of our house. sorry for the quality and positioning, having technical difficulties this morning...hopefully it gives a good idea.

















A few of my favorite things...

The plesant honesty, "Jeneba(me), I was up last night hearing Kimby(Marshall) cry. Is he better now?" Not complaining, just statement of fact...

How everyone, despite their age, is still wearing their new Tabaski clothes like excited little kids

How even the most distinguished old man is not above making a fart joke

The two inch baby gecko that lives behind the armoire in our bedroom and occasionally comes out to eat the stray moscito that sneaks in

How Marshall literally bounces with glee everytime someone greets him

How Marshall thinks he can use the spoon to feed himself. Watching him take it from my hand like I don't know what I'm doing and purposefully smacking himself in the cheek with it, mouth wide open.

The nice musicians that live behind us who are my unoffical Bamabara tutors who ask me everyday where I am going and what I am buying and politely correct my language when i'm wrong.

The medival castle like building that the family that sells eggs lives in

How instead of zoning out to the TV every night, Ian and I spend time telling each other crazy stories of our days

The awkward, yet endearing woman that I buy my salad fixings from who, despite how little I may want to buy, gives me the same amount worth of stuff each time I see her, hunts me down in the market and interrupts my conversations and keeps giving me carrots for Marshall

The wonderful salt and incence vendor with the huge smile that I see everytime I go to buy bananas

How, when at the grocery store yesterday, one of the employees was literally in the middle of the store at a table very openly counting money

The cool patchwork hearts outfit that my new friend Fatime was wearing the other day. I will try to get a picture of it,..

The fact that no matter how hard I try to get out early each day, I always leave the house within 5 minutes of 10:38am

The local gangs(not like in the states, really just a club) that have spray painted their names in our area: "The Fiber Boys" and the "Petit Fiber Girls." I imagine a bunch of 13 year old boys running about throwing bran muffins at each other

Friday, December 21, 2007

Tabaski...

It was fun seeing everyone all dressed up. Here are some great pics Ian took that show most of what we were able to see within feet of our front stoop. Most of them are just from that stoop, the view from our front door. Excuse the sheep heads, but its part of the day.


















Thursday, December 20, 2007

Ian's blog...

For lots of fascinating info about traditional medicine and magic in Mali as well as just some other cool cultural tidbits, visit Ian's blog...http://adventuresinbamako.blogspot.com/.

Tabaski has not been all it should have been. We've been shafted. No grilled meat for us, even though we can smell it cooking everywhere. damn....lesson learned. Its been fun to watch the kids go by, though, all dressed up in their fancy new duds. We've been handing them out fancy French candies that we just tasted ourselves...that explains why they havent been banging down our door...

Namasa



This is the bunch of bananas that Marshalls first real food came from. While snacking this morning, I gave him some to mush in his hand, it quickly went to the mouth and the hungry bird mouth began to form again and again as we gave him more. I honestly think he would have eaten the whole bunch if he could...

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

pictures


Marshall chillin' with the neighbors


Marshall yesterday


Marshall lounging on our luxurious poly-sateen and lace coverlet



Marshall and Ian keepin it real


How Ian passes his days


So, in Mali, there is a lot of joking that goes on based on last names. Its a light reminant of some past slave relationships and family feuds. The Coulibay's seem to be the butt of many jokes and are often seen as goofy folk. Abdolaye is a Coulibay...

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Baby breaks

The past couple of days we've been out and about, as we are most days, going to the market and running various errands. Bamako is most likely similar to all of your towns right now, full of traffic and craziness with people buying up everything in their path. Although people here are preparing for Tabaski which involves lots of food, new fancy clothes for all(I am a bit of a bad wife for not procuring matching Mali outfits for all three of us...apologies as that would make one heck of a picture), and a goat or a sheep, which are now filling the streets as everyone is proudly displaying theirs by tying them to the nearest tree or post outside their home. Just like the Thanksgiving turkeys, they know not their fates, and on Thursday their carcasses will be stripped and displayed hanging from the tree limbs, noting that all bellies are full and an afternoon of naps and sluggishness has arrived.
Marshall, being the social love child that he is, can't seem to get enough of this activity. He stops traffic at the markets at least twice, each outing. Regularly, we have to stop and laugh on the roadside with a family, an old lady, or a bunch of girls braiding their hair for the holidays. These breaks take at least 10 minutes and begin with him giggling like crazy and the rest of us following his lead doing all sorts of ridiculous things to keep him going. One stop with a sweet old lady yesterday seemed to go on forever and honestly, I'm not sure if we even spoke a word after she summoned us in Bambara so she could see the baby. We just laughed, and snapped our fingers, and shamelessly made funny faces and sang silly noises.
I tell you what, there is no better medicine for the frustrations of a hot Bamako day full of traffic, dismissive men and stinky goats than a giggle with a bunch of strangers...

Abdolaye...

Can't write much at the moment, but did need to say something about Abdolaye as im not sure how much longer he'll be with us. Hes demanding coffee before work, staying around for hours after and eating all our peanuts. We think hes depressed(his father died a year ago...was an accomplished doctor...Abdolae, oldest son and is not able to find work. Or maybe he's just flat out odd. If one of us could just be brave enough to tell it like it is to him...Management training 101...
Happy Tabaski(http://www.peacecorps.gov/kids/like/mali-celebration3.html) to all. Its Thursday and weve chipped in for a fat sheep. Yummy. We will be sharing it with Ian's fetish master and his family. I predict a few sacrifices and crazy stories to come. Aw be san be san be. A long, happy and fruitful life to all of you and your families.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Marshall Version 5.5

Marshall is now five and a half months, just a couple of weeks away from that big milestone of being half a year old. He still screams and chatters away, something that is bizarre to most Malians I see. They aren’t used to a child of his age being so chatty and ask me if he’s walking as well. In order to protect him from the dust and the sun, I often walk about with him covered under a thin cloth. The looks are even stranger then.

He’s doing that fabulous pre crawling thing where he gets on all fours and rocks purposefully front and back, as if he’s revving the engine to go. Granted, we think he may be going backwards already, although, only subtly as we put him on his play mat, he is suddenly off it when we look back, and he hasn’t rolled over.

We tried some real food this week. A little rice cereal one day and some mashed banana the next. The rice cereal came back with a disapproving grimace. The banana, summoned a bit of a smile for the first bite, and a grimace for the next. Dooni, donni as they say here in Mali….little by little.

His favorite toy these days is a plastic linker (these things that form chains and attach toys to all sorts of things. A typical thing you’ll find in the home of an infant these days) that is green with an elephant head on top. It entertains him for hours. So much for the play mat and 500 other toys we brought…

As the teeth continue to come in(not fully, yet, but they are moving about) and life changes for Marshall, he is a bit fussy, but always calmed by a trip out to greet the people. He loves people and we can sit and chat for hours while he grins and laughs as he’s passed around. I swear some days, he’d go home with just about anyone.

I need some batteries for my camera and will send some new pictures then. No major changes in appearance, just a little dusty.

Keeping Clean

This seems to be the theme of this past week. As you can imagine, the health of all of us relies on this being true, even more so with a teething and soon to be crawling infant who wants to go everywhere and taste everything.

We moved into our house on Thursday. We were both still a tad sick, and Marshall’s teeth had been keeping him up quite a bit. In other words, we were tired and weary, just wanting a place to call home. As a result, when looking at our new home, we saw it with rose colored glasses. Upon moving in, we found it in need of a bit more love and affection than we had seen at first glance.

The place has not been lived in in quite a bit. Everything was covered in a layer of thick red dust. It was musty, and as we soon discovered missing a few things. Some screens are broken, there is no screening over some decorative openings in our central wall, allowing some vines from our landlady’s gorgeous garden to come creeping in, and most importantly, there is no hot water.

Ian had asked about the hot water when we arrived and was given a placating, “Oh, that can be fixed…” passive response. It doesn’t seem to be too placating as a plumber came by today and should be working on the issue…granted, we have no idea how. He looked and left without a word. In the meantime, we’ve resorted to our Peace Corps days and are heating hot water over the stove and taking bucket baths(not as pitiful as it may sound, actually quite nice). Regardless, we would love to use our shower with the great shower head. Its just not hot enough yet to enjoy the frigid water that comes out of it. Its also nice for washing dishes, hands, and all the million other things we need to keep clean. We’ll see if the plumber comes back.

We have most of the Western amenities we could want: real toilet, a shower, a fridge, an oven and range, a microwave even(although there is no place to plug it in), A/C and ceiling fans throughout. There is even a TV/VCR set, although even Ian, the former Radio Shack employee, can’t quite seem to figure out the 700 cords that seem to come from it.

The most unexpected item, though, is a washing machine. We were all ready to pay someone to do this for us, and were surprised to find it in our bathroom. It’s a crazy little thing, about the size and shape of a midsize fridge. It has all of these numbers and symbols up top that I assume are to be universal, although neither one of us can figure out what they mean. After about 2 hours of pushing buttons, turning dials and finally figuring out the water wasn’t on, we put our first batch of clothes in and hoped for the best. The machine quickly locked itself and Ian said to me, “Ok, so I guess it will give us our clothes back when its ready.” Luckily, an hour later, it did so. We have developed a good relationship with it now. It washes our clothes nicely and gives them back in a timely manner, as long as we leave it be and let it do its job.

As we no longer have to pay someone to wash our clothes, while I was sick, Ian assumed we still needed someone to come and clean the house, so he arranged for the sister of a guy from our hotel to come by and take a look. First, lets make it totally clear that Ian and I are the most awkward people in the world when it comes to domestic assistance. Its one of those sad things that neither one of us is strong in. We feel weird having people do these things for us, even when necessary or terribly convenient. We feel a need to make it clear that we don’t feel like we’re any better or anything and end up spending more time guiltily chatting with the person than allowing them to get their work done.

So theres some context that brought us into our strange relationship with our now, house helper, Abdolaye. So, Fatime, the sister, came by to check things out. We awkwardly explain what we want, which, so as to not seem too greedy, we limit to cleaning our floors with the occasional need for other things. Twice a week. We ask how much and she wont make the call. Crap. Now we have to determine not only a fair price, but a fair MALIAN price for such services. We can’t lowball, but neither can we make it too high…We offer something up and make it clear that we don’t know what we’re doing and suggest she go and talk to her family and friends about it. She says her brother might be more well suited.

The next day, she and Abdolaye, dressed to the nines, show up at our door. He’s ok with the price and the work. I am the only one here, so I keep my fingers crossed that I haven’t lost anything in translation. We arrange for him to start the next day. Luckily Ian is here when he arrives so that between the two of us, we are able to figure out what bright eyed Abdolaye has planned. He is offering for a little more than double the price of what we offered him to come to work every day and be on “retainer” for us. He will do anything we need of him for this price and is all but bowing as he’s proposing it to us. Now that he’s even asked for “work clothes,” we realize that he thinks he’s our butler. Just too weird and plays upon our neuroses even more.

Needless to say that Abdolaye now comes on Mondays and Saturdays to clean the floors and, as a bonus, provide us with some cultural insights and assistance where needed. Last night, I wanted to make something with chicken for dinner. Malians get their chickens live at the market and kill them fresh for eating. Yeah…not that I couldn’t do that, but just not into it. Not to mention, we don’t have the large open outdoor space appropriate for such a thing. I asked Abdolaye, how to deal with such a situation and he nicely went out and got me a fresh chicken, had a friend kill it and clean it on up. The head was still attached, but hey, it was one step away from a fryer chicken at Safeway.

Its really weird and awkward for all of us to have a “house boy,” and things may evolve if and when I go to work, it may be more culturally appropriate to have a woman come and watch Marshall. For the time being, he’s helping us keep it clean.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Home!

We have a house! Well, I guess an apartment in the same compound with some French woman yet to be met but who has a very nice new car and an incredible yard. Just across the way is a sweet garden. Its in Missira(pr. Meeseera), a shady area of town where all the tailors work. There are weavers just outside our door. The calm Medina market is just up the street and Ian can walk to his reseach locale in 10-15 minutes. We couldnt ask for more. Marshall and I are waiting with our bags for Ian to come back from doing all the paperwork. He's been practicing his wave

Monday, December 3, 2007

Sick Day

Ugh. I caught something on the plane and now have a really annoying low grade fever and head cold. I thought it was allergies last night, often something that happens to me when a ceiling fan and a/c are reintroduced to my life. Marshall is not happy that I'm not feeling well. The typical dream sleeper was up at least 6 times last night. Didn’t help our demeanor when we traversed town to the American Embassy to meet with Ian’s liaison there and had to wait an hour and a half. Its supposedly a crazy week, Martin Scorcese, a famous artist and some NBA stars are coming to Mali next week.
Regardless, she was a lovely lady and was able to get Ian set up with all sorts of clearances. She also may have a job for me, which I had given up on. By the end of the meeting though, I was about to pass out. Ok, that may be a bit dramatic, but I was not feeling well. Needless to say, I have spent the whole afternoon and evening locked in the hotel room trying to sleep, watching weird Malian TV…public service ads on handling pesticide, some Brazilian soap opera dubbed in French, some music videos, Christian programming, a press conference with the local police about preventing traffic accidents. Luckily, with some food, Tylenol, Dayquil and a bit of a nap, I am starting to feel better.

Marshall and I have been able to spend some great time together, too. He is such a champ and handling all of this change so well. Last night he met a sweet little Lebanese girl named Dina. She’s probably about 7 and is the daughter of the owners of a little bar/restaurant next to our hotel. Marshall thought she was the funniest thing he’d ever seen, for about 15 minutes she kept him laughing. We saw her again today at lunch and it was the same thing. Unfortunately, I think she thought he was a doll as she kept adjusting his shirt, taking his hat on and off and pulling him into her so she could kiss him. Whatever, it most definitely made him happy.
He’s rolling all over the place these days and is getting really good at picking up smaller and smaller things. I think he’ll be crawling in the month. He’s so good with strangers, which is a good thing because, as I now live in a place where it’s the village that takes care of the child, he is passed around regularly. Just the men, though…its interesting.
He is often tired, though. He knows we aren’t in the states anymore and is afraid if he sleeps he is going to miss something. Granted, he probably would.

It looks like we may have found a place to live, although it isn’t at all what we thought. Ian went on a wild goose chase this afternoon looking at places while I rested. We'll see where it all leads tomorrow. Here is our broker…




Yes, he is an antiques dealer, or as Ian said, “That’s one of his cards from yesterday